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  1. Jockey Wheel Advice

    Posted on

    It’s important to secure your jockey wheel properly while using your Go-Pod and here are a few tips on how to overcome some common issues.

    On this example shown, the bracket has been clamped up too low down on the jockey wheel. It should be clamped around the larger diameter top part.

    However, it is also possible to tighten the jockey wheel clamp on the larger diameter tube but still have it looking crooked like this.

    The arrow labelled '1' in the photo below shows where the clamp should be ideally.

    To correct any issues like this, we suggest supporting the front end of the Go-Pods hitch using something that is substantial enough to take its weight. A axle stand, block of wood or bricks maybe. Take suitable care with this and ensure the handbrake is applied.

    With the support in place wind the jockey wheel up, so that the whole weight of the Go-Pod now rests on the support you prepared, thus raising the jockey wheel up in to the air.

    If the smaller diameter tube is over extended, continue winding until most of it is inside of the larger diameter outer tubing.

    Once the jockey wheel is off the ground you can release the clamp lock, (number 4 on the photo), taking care not to drop it on to your toes! 

    You can then ensure the larger diameter tube is correctly positioned in the clamp. 

    TIP! Wiggle the jockey wheel as you re-tighten the clamp lock, to ensure it is straight & properly seated in the clamp. Clamping it up wonky is a common issue as is failing to tighten the clamp suffeciently - as they can begin to work loose unless if they're not properly tightened.

    With the jockey wheel adjusted and the clamp tight, wind the handle, (3), again so that the wheel touches the floor and jacks your Go-Pod up, off of the support. You can now remove the support.

    A jockey wheel that is clamped crooked, will often jump straight suddenly, (as you move around inside), and will result in the clamp becoming loose. This can cause the front of the Go-Pod to drop without warning and although alarming, this is not normally detrimental.

    If this does happen, just re-set your jockey wheel is the way described above. Jockey wheels are seldom faulty and the majority of issues are user related.

    Screen Shot 2018-10-11 at 14.41.16

    If in doubt, please contact the After Sales Department on 01704 889973.

  3. The Go-Pod Awning - Set Up Advice.

    Posted on

    We had this recent request for help with the awning and thought it might be useful to share it and the reply:

    Q:
    "I would like some advice on the best way to fit the awning to my Go-Pod please. Any tips would be gratefully received!"

    A:
    Most owners take the awning's two front guy ropes and tie them forward to the Pods' front grab handles, as shown in the photo below. Ensure both ropes are the same length and tie them off so that the fabric of the awning stays just shy of the Go-Pods pop top opening. That way the awning won't foul the pop top if you need to close it in bad weather. The ropes should lie along the top surface of the Go-Pod and not be diagonally crossed.

    Some people use simple 'S-hooks', (as shown below), to fix to the handles, so that it’s quicker and so the guy ropes are always the same length, every time. Others mark the guy ropes so ther is a visual indicator of where to tie them off.

    1. Errect the awning so that it's a free standing structure & ensure it looks aligned straight from the rear of the Pod.

    2. Affix the front ropes to the grab handles as explained above & shown below.

    3. Peg down only the open ends of the elasticated tunnel section, placing the pegs well underneath the Go-Pod itself - near by the stabiliser legs - on both sides. This will secure the bottom part and keep the elastic sides nice and tight.

    4. Walk the whole awning structure backwards, away from the Go-Pod until the tunnel goes nice and tight. Ensure that the whole structure stays as straight and as squarely aligned as possible.

    5. Peg the whole thing down.

    TIP: Taking the two rear guy ropes from the very back of the awning, peg them down tightly in a backwards direction, away from the Go-Pod. So in other words, directly backwards in a straight line. This has the affect of further tightening the tunnel section.

    [Do not peg down the whole awning first and move the Go-Pod towards it! I have heard this suggested and it's a certain recipe for disaster!] 

    We recommend that the doors and the inner divider of the awning be zipped shut before peg down the awning's legs. This will ensure you'll be able to unzip them easily after pegging. Stand back and check if it looks right before proceeding to peg it down further and adjust if necessary.

    Pegs are provided with the awning but it's a good idea to take some extra, metal hardstand pegs and a decent club hammer. Those are the pegs that are like 6” nails & work in every scenario.

    Watch that the webbing straps between the awning's legs aren't wrapped around the feet and that they are as taut as possible when you peg it.

    Its normal for it be a little different each time, due to the lay of the land and so on but with some care & practice, you'll find its a really great awning, even in pretty strong winds! 

    Awning tie 2

    Awning tie 1

    Additional info: 

    Some people add a strip of awning bead to the top of the tunnel end, instead of using the forward guy ropes method. Having tested both ways, we feel that neither has any major advantages and that this is a matter of personal preference. Stitching a bead in place is best done with an industrial sewing machine, while stretching the elasticated section out flat.

    We did work with Khyam one season to produce a special Go-Pod version of the awing which had awning bead attached and the Go-Pod logo. However, as the production quantities we were able to order were relatively low, this was dropped when the item became outpriced. The regular Khyam awning supplied now is offered at the same RRP as the manufacturers and is included within the PLUS and Platinum models.

     

  4. Go-Pod Dimensions

    Posted on

    Measurements for pre-2019 Go-Pods follows - please review the important footnotes.

    2018 Models

    External Dimensions:

    Length - 4.20m including 0.99m hitch & bar.
    Width - 1.85m
    Height - 2.05m roof down. Raising pop top adds 30cm.
    *Note regarding garage storage  -  Recommended minimum clearance - 210cm.
    MiRO - 490Kg (Actual Mass = 575Kg) Based on Standard model.
    Brakes - AL-KO Braking System.
    MTPLM - 750Kg / 1000Kg
    Nose Weight - 49Kg (54Kg with front box & gas bottle plumbed) 
    Ground Clearance. - 183mm NB: Lowest point is the removable spare wheel.
         

    Internal Dimensions:

    Standing height - 1.84m
    Floor - full length - 2.05m
    Floor - width - 0.62m
    Floor - bed end of aisle to door   - 1.00m
    Bed - length - 1.95m
    Bed - width as double - 1.57m
    Bed - width as single - 0.53m
    Door - width - 0.60m
    Door - height - 1.58m

     

     

    Dimensions: Pre-2018 Models

    External Dimensions:

    Length - 4.20m including 0.99m hitch & bar.
    Width - 1.85m
    Height - 2.05m roof down. Raising pop top adds 30cm.
    *Note regarding garage storage  -  Recommended minimum clearance - 210cm.
    MiRO - Varies with model & each unit's spec.
    Brakes - AL-KO Braking System.
    MTPLM - 750Kg
    Nose Weight - 49Kg (54Kg with front box & gas bottle plumbed) 
    Ground Clearance. - 183mm NB: Lowest point is the removable spare wheel.
         

    Internal Dimensions:

    Standing height - 1.84m
    Floor - full length - 2.05m
    Floor - width - 0.62m
    Floor - bed end of aisle to door   - 1.00m
    Bed - length - 1.95m
    Bed - width as double - 1.57m
    Bed - width as single - 0.53m
    Door - width - 0.60m
    Door - height - 1.58m

    Notes:

    More information and specs on current models can be found on each model's page at: www.2berthcaravan.co.uk

    Measurements and weights shown are intended as a guide and may vary, be approximated or estimated where necessary.

    Due to the manufacturing process, each Go-Pod may have some variation in it's dimensions and therefore the sizes & weights shown are approximated. This is due to variation between moulds and the thickness of the GRP applied.

    We therefore recommend that adequate tolerance is allowed if your storage area is limited.

    These measurements superceed all previously published specs.

  6. Owners Tips - 25 April 2018. Grease nipples - Solar Panel Controller - The 2018 Awning.

    Posted on


    We've received a couple queries regarding the hitch grease nipples, solar panels & awnings recently, (as they've been topics discussed on some forums), so thought we'd post a little info on these to put customer's minds at rest.

    1. Hitch Grease: the apparatus is made by AL-KO, (a top quality brand), and are supplied pre-greased. The nipples service the mechanism inside the metal tubing & beneath the rubber gator and this is not visible unless the gator is removed. No grease will be seen around nor inside the nipples, as that would not have been used. This is something that can be checked by removing the gator or at a service but it’s best not to over-grease. We have never had any issues with Go-Pods having problems with a lack or grease. Videos and images below to show how your hitch should be.

    2. Solar Panel Controller: Solar panels are totally automatic and need no attention. The controller, (that prevents over charging and stops the charge from trying to leave the battery when dark), just does it’s own thing. We have never encountered a faulty controller unit. The lights flash and illuminate in a variety of ways but we recommend that the battery be kept an eye on instead and the solar panel controller can be left alone.

    3. Awnings: The branded awning, (discontinued around end of 2017), was the same size and dimensions as the non-branded version which Khyam sell. It does however work out more cost effective not to provide the branded one, as we can’t buy them in as large a quantity / as cheaply as the regular ones that Khyam produce. So bottom line is that by reverting to the regular version saves the customer money. We did add an awning bead to the branded one but this too was discontinued, as we prefer that the tunnel fit can be better adjusted if the guy ropes are tied forward to the grab handles instead. 

    Hope this helps and if any owner has a question that they'd like answered - then drop us a post or contact our after sales.

    Grease nipples location

     The grease nipples location.

     

    With gator removed

    With gator removed. (We don't recommend removing the gator incase it becomes split & lets road dirt in).

    This is how the action of the hitch should be. If your's is like this, you can just leave it be.